Rome

If you are walking along the sanpietrini, disoriented because the streets are like a maze, lost in thought - but not too much - or you will be killed by the maniacally fast-paced traffic, if you walk past one store selling prosciutti - then a bakery - then a shop for religious antiques - then one selling an anatomy book from 1560, if you see graffiti and motorini on every street, caribinieri nonchalantly smoking and standing guard with their machine guns at official buildings and synagogues, if you are cursing under your breathe in exasperation one moment and in the next moment you are utterly charmed - but not too much - or you will be run over by the the absurdly pedestrian hostile traffic - you're in Rome.